I've been using my Garmin plenty lately, and as promised, here's more on how it performs spinning. Not that it makes much of a difference, but for this "test", I went for an hour rather than the 20-30 minutes I have been.
Pros
I'm really liking the fact that I can set up what data shows in the main screen. Even better, I can set up Bike 1, Bike 2, Bike 3, etc., with different screen profiles. I especially like the HR Zone. For me though, like with the running features, the ability to easily track and store my workouts on Garmin Connect is by far my favorite feature.
Cons
Sometimes I'm a little forgetful. I forgot to turn off the GPS, and ended up somehow gaining 300m in elevation and almost a kilometer in distance. Not really the end of the world, since I just need to remember to turn it off, but kind of funny, and it does make me wonder if that's right?
My Setup
The Garmin is just strapped to my handlebars with the wrist strap; it tends to fall down a little, as does the iPod that's just in an armband-- but hey, it's not like it has to be aero!
The third little gadget is my cadence/speed computer. Got it at mec for a few dollars, and it's got both sensors (cadence and speed) on the rear chainstay so it works when I'm spinning as well as on the road. Like I mentioned in Part 1, I don't have the Garmin cadence meter.
You can't really see what's on the screen in the above photos, but I've set up the "Bike 1" with elapsed time, time of day, heart rate and HR zone. There's a lot of different data fields available - especially if you also have the cadence sensor and a wireless power meter. (I haven't dropped the coin on that yet... need to get the tri bike first!)
For this ride, the plan was to warm up for about 10 minutes, then go for 80-85 rpm cadence. About twenty minutes in, the plan changed to include going for 20+ km/h - normally not too difficult on the highway, but tough on the one-setting magnetic trainer. I think I did pretty good, but it doesn't track on the Garmin! I think I'm convincing myself I need that cadence sensor...
Cooldown was about 5 minutes on the bike, another 5 on the treadmill, and about 10 minutes of stretching and ab work.
Check out the "map" of this workout. Kind of comical.
Yes, you need a cadence sensor to make spin workouts effective. I'd do that before the tri bike. Actual speed on the trainer doesn't really tell you much. I can send you some of my bike workouts if you're interested, lots of different stuff. Until you get the cadence thing going, the best thing you can do is to spin smooth, then gradually spin faster in a fairly easy gear till you start to bounce. Then suck in your core, and pedal there till you learn to smooth it out. You are bouncing because your leg is still pushing down and the pedal can't go down any more, so your butt goes up. Once you get the cadence meter, you'll see improvement on this. One way to improve is to pedal with just one leg without any clunk at the top. Let the other hang. Go till your hip flexors burn. Have fun. Try not to spew. Do it again.
ReplyDeleteOh, I've got the cadence measurement, it's just not linked to the Garmin. The funny thing is, I know i'm bouncing a little, but it shows me bouncing 1 m + at a time...
ReplyDeletei think you can have it auto turn off when you stop moving. i got one about 6 days ago.
ReplyDeleteand cadence is a fun number, i have two computers on my bike, one for distance, speed and the other has cadence, temp. not sure temp helps much other than people now ask me what the temp is all the time. :-) the wife has distance/elevation. lol. so we are pretty tricked out with numbers. but the cadence, try to get it as high as possible, i think that lance freak does 100 all the time. more like an indi car with the serious rpms... :-)
I agree with Keith, get the cadence sensor before the tri bike!!! Or else you are waiting a looonnnggg time for the cadence sensor!! Haha
ReplyDeleteI like your map!!